Are Modern-Day Corsets Becoming A Reclamation Of Feminine Liberty?

American classical musician Sondra Radvanovsky once made a controversial statement during an interview with Broadway– “You go to the gym to make sure you have the stamina to breathe in the corsets.” Her comment, though provocative, underscores the contentious history surrounding the fascinating garment that has shaped both bodies and society for centuries. The structure, a meticulous combination of boning and lace, was historically considered a functional part of women’s clothing.

A Look At The History Of Corsets

However, as questions of its implications on health arose, the allure of the garment dimmed, only to resurge in a more relaxed form later. Have you noticed how every red carpet event lately is incomplete without at least one corset-esque look?

Fashion historians have reported that the corset first made an appearance in 1600 BC. Over many centuries, the garment evolved from a sleeveless bodice comprising stays made of whalebone to an undergarment comprising steel in the 16th-century Western world. Corsets were used to compress the waist and give the body a ‘feminine’ appearance like an hourglass or 'S' shape. 

It is said that empresses in the Renaissance era, like Catherine de Medici, forbade the women in their court from revealing a wide waist, thus deeming the corset a necessity and symbol of social status. High-society women donned stiffened garments with laces in the front and back to cinch their torso, along with a decorative panel known as a ‘stomacher’ to conceal the laces.

Corseting Reimagined

During the Industrial Revolution, middle-class and working-class women took a liking to the garment’s slimming effect, making it a wardrobe staple. However, in the 1900s, medical experts pointed out the detrimental impact of wearing corsets, including difficulty breathing, disturbed blood circulation, reproductive issues like endometriosis or infertility, and atrophied organs.

In came the flapper era of the 1920s, when women forgo the regressive qualifiers of being ‘lady-like’ and embraced loose-fitting and even androgynous clothing. However, couture mogul Vivienne Westwood reimagined corsets on 1970s runways, giving them a glorious comeback. Only this time around, the restrictive garment was showcased as a reclamation of female power.

Several other couturiers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Yves Saint Laurent hopped on the bandwagon and the corset was seen in various ingenious formats including 'boudoir chic'. The corsets blurred the lines between innerwear and outerwear as designers experimented with different materials and strived to make the garment a comfortable part of high-end closets.

Nishika Bhagat and Twishaa Bhagat, the founders of the contemporary corset brand Osé Studios, told SheThePeople about what the resurgence of corsets symbolises for modern women.

"Once relegated to being hidden undergarments, corsets have made a comeback in recent years as a way for women to embrace their bodies and sexuality openly. This resurgence represents a shift towards body positivity, as modern corsets are designed to fit the wearer comfortably rather than enforcing unrealistic body expectations as they did in the 18th century," they explained.

Tighter, TIGHTER!

Several characters on screen in the 20th and 21st centuries have portrayed the corset through a critical lens. Picture this: a woman bent over, enduring aches, as her stylist (maid) pulls the laces of her corset tighter and tighter, till there's no room left for a single whisper to pass through. This visual is a familiar scene in many period dramas like Titanic (1997) and Bridgerton (2020).

English actress Emma Watson vehemently refused to wear a corset for her role as Princess Belle in Beauty And The Beast (2017), irking fashion historians for misrepresenting the character. For context, the original fable was written in 1740, when corsets were thriving. Watson argued that as a feminist, she derided the depiction of women adhering to regressive beauty standards.

However, fashion experts say that corsets now are more for the aesthetic appeal than to shape the body. Shalini Jaikaria, co-founder of Geisha Designs said, "Unlike the rigid and restrictive stays of the past, contemporary corsets are designed to enhance the natural curves of the body rather than forcefully reshape it. They are available in a wider range of sizes and styles, catering to diverse body shapes and personal preferences."

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Making A Comeback

Gen-Z has adopted a plethora of old-school fashion trends like Y2K style and retro, giving it a versatile and nuanced twist, and corsets are no exception. While corsets were typically associated with feminine silhouettes like gowns or skirts in the Western world, contemporary fashion enthusiasts around the globe can be seen pairing comfy corsets with pieces like trousers or jeans.

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In India, women have incorporated this trend into our ethnic fashion, pairing it as a blouse with lehengas or sarees. Gaurika Rai, CEO of Indian fashion house Warp 'n Weft said, "The versatility of corsets allows them to complement a wide range of traditional fabrics and styles, making them a popular choice among those seeking to elevate their desi ensemble."

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How ironic is it that a corset, once known to restrict a woman's curves, is now being termed 'versatile'? Oh, the beauty of fashion! Acclaimed Indian designers have used the elements of traditional corsets in their recent work. However, the corset is not just an indispensable part of red carpet events but is also as a laid-back garment that can be worn to lunch dates with the girlies.  

Nishika and Twishaa Bhagat commented, "Recently, we've observed members of Gen Z and even Indian brands like Amit Aggarwal incorporating corsets with sarees. This fusion represents a clever blending of two cultures. Such incorporation not only keeps Indian fashion relevant globally by aligning with international trends but also maintains a connection to traditional Indian culture. This combination creates a powerful silhouette and has the potential to further evolve the landscape of Indian fashion."

From its origins as a symbol of femininity to its reclamation as a tool for women's self-expression and bodily autonomy, the corset has undergone a remarkable transformation. The development of the garment over the decades is not merely about comfort but reflects the evolution of attitudes towards communities' social statuses, womanhood, and beauty standards.

Views expressed are the author's own.