Choli Mein Exactly Kya Hai? The Evolution Of Blouse In India

A blouse is much more than a loyal companion to the illustrious six yards. In the contemporary world, it is seen as a symbol of modesty, lest the bare skin of a woman allows our sanskar (culture) to slip away. However, archaeological evidence has shown that women in ancient South Asia went bare-chested or partially wrapped in a cloth or jewels. Several relics, sculptures, and scriptures across the subcontinent have shown women mostly covering just the lower body, unearthing a captivating narrative of sartorial liberation. Yet, today, the sight of a saree sans the blouse has become uncommon and frowned upon. 

The saree blouse has evolved from being non-existent to a wardrobe staple, to even becoming a canvas to paint one's personalised style and comfort. It is now omnipresent in most South Asian women's closets, yet the rich fabric of history remains largely unexplored. Let's take a look at the humble garment's journey. 

Evolution Of The Blouse

In sculptures from the Mauryan and Sunga periods (about 300 BC), women can be seen donning nothing more than an unstitched length of fabric over their lower body and optionally a loosely draped piece of fabric or opulent jewellery covering their breasts. It is believed that the Mughal era of the 15th century reeled in the concept of stitched garments like blouses and salwars.

The blend of Mughal and Indian cultures was reflected in the women wearing blouses that covered the breasts but exposed the midriff. By the 19th century, a new ethos emerged where 'nudity' was considered immoral according to Victorian standards. Consequently, the elites and royal families took inspiration from Western fashion and adapted traditional Indian wear to it. 

It was Jnanadanandini Devi, Rabindranath Tagore's sister-in-law, who single-handedly popularised the new dress code for common women, demanding a fully covered torso. Soon, the silver screen adapted, and actors such as Vaijyanti Mala, Nutan, Nargis and Meena Kumari wore different styles of blouses and further enshrined the garment in our evolving culture.

Now, 'micro blouses' with strappy sleeves and bralette blouses are in trend, making risqué statements. However, women wearing such blouses are deemed immoral and trolled for showing "too much skin." Ironic, isn't it? Like most other parts of our culture, the colonisation of our fashion has left an indelible mark (or scar, even) on our culture.

A Patchwork Of Identities

Historically, the blouse has also symbolised the wearer's caste and community. For example, in the erstwhile Kingdom of Travancore (19th century), women belonging to 'lower' castes were prohibited from covering their breasts in public. Some historians state that they were directed to pay a mulakkaram or "breast tax" for not adhering to the regulation.

According to Kerala folklore, a woman once protested the mulakkaram by chopping her breasts off and handing them over to a tax collector. However, this real tale behind the breast tax is largely contended. Historian-writer Manu Pillai stated the tax on covering breasts is a myth as even royal women did not cover their breasts until the late 1850s.

In some tribal societies of India, women eschew the blouse even today, making it part of their communal identity. Among these, the women of the Halakki tribe of the Uttara Kannada district, Karnataka, stand out with their blouseless sarees covering their breasts with the tightly secured pallu and layers of jewellery, providing both coverage and freedom of movement.

The Role Of Blouses Today

The saree blouse in mainstream modern South Asia has become an amalgamation of these different histories while also allowing room for new-gen modifications. Backless, deep-neck, or button-down shirt-- it is a space for creativity galore. Speaking to SheThePeople, fashion experts described how this fluidity has made the saree blouse omnipresent across eras.

According to couturiers, the demand for saree blouses remains solid despite evolving trends, showing its powerful impact on our cultural attire. Mandira Bansal, the founder of Weave In India shared, "Influential figures like Bollywood actress Sridevi and fashion designer Manish Malhotra are known for revitalizing traditional saree attire with innovative approaches."

She continued, "Advancements in textile technology like digital printing techniques, laser-cut detailing, and 3D embellishments have revolutionized blouse construction. Blouses are considered wardrobe essentials due to their versatility, timeless appeal, and suitability for various occasions. Their consistent demand underscores their importance as a must-have item in the fashion world."

Personal stylist Khushnaz Turner shared that the saree blouse has also moulded itself to fit into the current fashion landscape where consumers prioritise ready-to-wear pieces and a variety of styles. "Saree blouses have adapted to the era of fast fashion by offering a range of styles, sizes, and price points to cater to diverse consumer preferences," she added.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Khushnaz Ashdin Turner (@kat_diaries)

Speaking of versatility, content creator Joyaswinee Koch remarks, "Blouses have evolved a lot over the years, and it’s an important part of the ensemble even today. The traditional garment has been well blended into contemporary trends. The purpose, material, and embroidery mark the traditions but the designs like off shoulders, halter necks, etc, have evolved with contemporary trends."

In Indian fashion history, the saree blouse has played a pivotal role in reflecting cultural identity, expression of society, and symbol of femininity. The garment has traversed a long journey from being absent in ancient times to becoming an upholder of modesty. However Indian women continue to celebrate it as a spectrum of versatility and personal comfort.