Mystery of Dhaka Muslin: No One Knows How To Make This Historic Fabric

Nearly two centuries ago, Dhaka muslin was the most coveted fabric in the world, known for its sheer quality and luxurious feel. Originating from Dhaka, in present-day Bangladesh, this fabric was made through an intricate 16-step process using rare cotton that thrived along the Meghna River. This exquisite cloth, highly prized in ancient Greece and among Mughal royalty, was deemed worthy of adorning deities and emperors alike. Then, mysteriously, it vanished. How did such a celebrated textile disappear?

A Fabric Like No Other

The finest types of Dhaka muslin bore poetic names like "baft-hawa" or "woven air," reflecting their lightness and softness. Travellers marvelled at the fabric's fineness, claiming a 300-foot length could pass through a ring and a 60-foot piece could fit into a snuffbox. This high-end muslin was also known for its transparency, which sparked both fascination and scandal in late 18th-century Europe.

In Europe, Dhaka muslin revolutionized fashion. It replaced the rigid, voluminous Georgian dresses with delicate, straight-cut "chemise gowns," resembling what was previously considered underwear. Satirical prints and comedic writings of the era depicted women in these sheer garments, highlighting the fabric's controversial transparency.

The Rise and Fall of Dhaka Muslin

Despite its popularity among European aristocracy, including figures like Marie Antoinette and Jane Austen, Dhaka muslin disappeared by the early 20th century. The convoluted production technique was lost, and the unique cotton, Phuti karpas (Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta), went extinct. The reasons behind this decline are multifaceted, involving environmental, economic, and colonial factors.

Dhaka muslin production began with Phuti karpas plants along the Meghna River, which produced short, easily frayed cotton fibres. These fibres were unsuitable for industrial machinery but perfect for hand-weaving. The 16-step process, carried out by various villages, involved cleaning the cotton with boal catfish jawbones and spinning the fibres in high humidity on boats.

Weaving Dhaka muslin was a meticulous process that could take months. The intricate jamdani designs, often floral and geometric, were woven directly into the fabric, creating detailed artwork from thousands of silky strands. This craftsmanship lent the fabric its legendary quality and feel.

Dhaka Muslin's Global Fascination

Western buyers were captivated by Dhaka muslin's ethereal qualities, spawning myths about its origins. Some believed it was woven underwater by mermaids or fairies. This reverence continues, as modern jamdani weaving, a derivative of Dhaka muslin, is protected by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage.

The Thread Count Mystery

Dhaka muslin's exceptional quality stems from its high thread count, ranging from 800 to 1200, far surpassing modern fabrics. Surviving examples in museums occasionally appear at auctions, fetching high prices and demonstrating enduring fascination with this lost art.

Colonial Impact and Decline

The British East India Company significantly disrupted Dhaka muslin production. By monopolizing trade and imposing high-volume, low-price demands, they pushed weavers into debt and ruined the industry. Attempts to replicate muslin in Europe, combined with technological advancements in spinning, further diminished the need for authentic Dhaka muslin.

The End of an Era

Environmental disasters and economic pressures forced many weavers to abandon their craft, and the knowledge of Dhaka muslin production faded. With the extinction of Phuti karpas and the industry's collapse, this legendary fabric became a relic of the past.

Reviving a Lost Art

Saiful Islam, a Bangladeshi native, embarked on a mission to revive Dhaka muslin in 2013. Through extensive research, including DNA sequencing of preserved Phuti karpas leaves, Islam and his team identified potential plant matches and began cultivating them near the Meghna River.

Reviving Dhaka muslin proved challenging, especially finding skilled weavers willing to produce high-thread-count fabric. However, perseverance led to the creation of hybrid muslin saris, blending ordinary and Phuti karpas cotton. These efforts received global recognition, and the Bangladeshi government now supports the initiative.

The Future of Dhaka Muslin

With ongoing cultivation and support, the dream of producing pure Dhaka muslin at higher thread counts is becoming a reality. This revival not only restores a cultural heritage but also redefines Bangladesh's global image, celebrating its history as the birthplace of the finest textile ever made. The Bangladeshi government supports the project, seeing it as a matter of national pride. The goal is to produce pure Dhaka muslin with even higher thread counts, reviving this ancient art and redefining Bangladesh's global image.