Chef Sherry Mehta Redefines Meaning Of Heritage & Authenticity In Food

Taking the ancestral delicacies of her family's Punjabi kitchen to large-scale culinary operations, Chef Sherry Mehta stands as a guardian of tradition. Her kitchens are like historic museums where recipes echo stories traversing through time. Yet, she asserts that there is no such thing as a 'generation passed recipe', challenging the notion of authenticity with her creativity and personal touch. In an interview with SheThePeople, chef and entrepreneur Sherry Mehta spoke about the intricacies of heritage recipes and her approach to preserving tradition in the contemporary world. 

Throughout the conversation, Chef Mehta's passion for food and culinary innovation was infectiously palpable. She also delved into a nostalgic recollection of her childhood and upbringing in Himachal Pradesh and how her life experiences have influenced her relationship with cultural food. 

Inculcating Love For Cooking

"My grandmom would have been a Michelin star chef in those days," Chef Mehta recounts, speaking about the influence of her upbringing on her career. From a young age, food was not just sustenance, but a love language spoken fluently in her family home. The fragrance of delicacies like parathas and dals drew the community together in the warmth of the kitchen.  

"I started cooking when I was 13," Chef Mehta recalled. "I come from a family where food is very, very important; and not only the nuances of cooking or dishes, but how to preserve everything in the kitchen, the concept of zero waste. I have seen my grandmom doing every small thing to keep everything intact. It was like a scientist working in a museum. So, the kitchen has been a very big part of my upbringing." 

She also reminisced how her grandmother would host friends and family for a meal, celebrating an ambience of togetherness through food. "Every Sunday, my grandmom used to make tandoori rotis and slow-cooked dal in our backyard. I remember how the entire mohalla (community) used to gather with their own pedas (balls of dough) to make them."

Mehta's interests extended beyond the culinary world; in 2005, she earned the title of Miss Shimla, which then helped her to foray into the film industry. Meanwhile, she was continuing her family's culture of cooking for friends and family when a friend working with a prestigious hotel chain recognized her talent and invited her to participate in a food festival.

"I was so nervous at that time that I told them, 'I don't even know how to chop like chefs do. So how will I do the food festival? And my friend told me to just cook from my heart. The way I feed my people, do the same at the hotel." The food festival was a great success, as Mehta's food captivated the masses. Ever since there has been no looking back.

Chef Mehta is the founder of Kanak by Sherry and the co-founder and consultant at The Nomad Foodie, through which she is bringing the beauty of her culture to different palettes. She has also been on popular television shows like Grilled and India's 50 Best Dishes and has been appreciated by celebrities and renowned world chefs.

The Art Of Passing Down Traditions

Speaking about some of the most treasured recipes in her family, Chef Mehta expressed how the importance of making them today is about renewing some of the most tested traditions. From the medicinal properties of kachchi haldi ki pinni (raw turmeric balls) to preserving seasonal produce through pickling, the purpose of cooking is beyond satiating cravings.

As a professional chef now, she carries on this legacy, ensuring that these recipes and methods continue to be a part of her kitchen. For Chef Mehta, preserving traditional recipes isn't just about cooking the same dishes the same way every time; it's about honouring the essence and spirit of those foods while also embracing innovation and creativity.

She said, "I always correct people whenever they say 'Its a lost recipe' or 'Its a generation-passed recipe'. I always tell them that nothing is lost. We learn the techniques from our ancestors but it's always our recipe. Maybe I will share a recipe with you but you will have your own take. Maybe you add a bit more garlic, or maybe you don't add coriander. So there is always room for creativity with these dishes and then they become your recipe, so nothing is lost."

Chef Mehta also creates confluences of different cultures in her cooking. From mastering authentic Ladakhi delicacies to fusing a revered Tulu recipe with an Italian twist, her kitchen is a laboratory with no bounds of experimentation. She believes that her love for travelling and indulging in different local cuisines has shaped her culinary repertoire.

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She also spoke about how food can be a tool for social impact. "Food brings us together. Food is something which can trigger the right nostalgia and it can be very emotional. Moreover, if done right, it can make a lot of difference for the society. So, I think we should always move towards that and create that benchmark for everyone."

While not having 'professional' training in culinary arts, Sherry Mehta's ascent to a celebrity-favoured chef is a testament to her deep connection with food and cooking. Cooking has served several purposes throughout her life, beyond just filling the stomach. For Mehta, it has been a source of healing and belongingness which she hopes to evoke through her food.