Cuisine is an integral part of our intangible cultural heritage. This book is a personal culinary journey that celebrates the friendships and goodwill of well-wishers across India. Compiled here is a repository of recipes that are associated with warm memories. Many recipes from the homes of these friends and family members have been handed down through the generations, but they invite further culinary inventiveness. Such is the magic of cuisine.
The India Cookbook is not a panoramic overview of food in the Indian subcontinent; rather, it is about the pluralism of Indian food and the variety in home-style cooking. It is about artisanal food, cooked and served in the homes of one’s many friends throughout the length and breadth of India. I am fortunate in my friends!
Here's a recipe for Hyderabadi Biryani from Shabana Azmi.
SERVES: 8–10
PREPARATION TIME: 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES (PLUS 1 HOUR MARINATION TIME)
INGREDIENTS
Mutton (gol boti or raan) - 1 kg
Basmati rice - 1 kg, washed and soaked
Ghee - ¼ kg
Onions - 5–6, thinly sliced
Lemons - 2, juiced
Saffron - 2 pinches, soaked in some water
Cold milk - 3 tbsp
For marination
Yoghurt - ½ kg
Ginger garlic paste - 1½ tbsp
Mint leaves - a bunch
Coriander leaves - a bunch
Green chillies - 4–6, finely chopped
Red chilli powder - ½ tsp
Black cumin seeds - ¼ tsp, slightly crushed
Green cardamom pods - 14, ground after removing shells
Green cardamom pods - 4
Cinnamon - 4 small sticks
Whole peppercorns - 20–25
Cloves - 5–6
Garam masala - ½ tsp
Salt - to taste
METHOD
Marinate the mutton for at least 1 hour in the ingredients listed.
Heat the ghee in a large wok. Fry the sliced onions until they are browned. Drain and set aside.
In the same ghee (you may take some out if you choose), fry the marinated meat.
Add three-fourths of the fried onion and 1½ teaspoon of salt and fry on high heat, stirring continuously so the meat doesn’t stick.
When the meat has mostly cooked through and the onions appear dry, remove from heat.
Take a deep pan. Add enough water to fill up half of the vessel and add a pinch of salt and the garam masala. Bring to a boil.
Once the water starts boiling, add the rice and stir intermittently.
Wait till the rice is about fully cooked, then drain and layer half of it in a large and deep pan. On top of this layer all the cooked meat.
If you removed any ghee while frying the meat, add it here. Also add the reserved fried onions and finally layer the remaining rice on top.
Sprinkle the saffron–water mixture and lemon juice on top, and then add the cold milk.
Now tightly cover the dish and weigh the lid down with a pestle. Put on high heat for a minute, then reduce heat.
Carefully place an iron griddle or tawa under the dish and leave to cook for 10 minutes. Take off the heat, but let the dish remain on the griddle until it is time to serve.